Yesterday I spent Remembrance Day (Veterans’ Day to some) outside of Britain for the first time.

My grandfather took part in WWII as a sergeant and though he is still alive, I always try to attend something to attest to that fact.

I think it’s important to note that the day is a public holiday in France, whereas in Britain we have just the two minutes between 1100 and 1102. There’s Remembrance Sunday for the parades and services. That in itself is a reflection of the national character, not to say the French don’t like working and ill find any excuse not to (ahem) but that the British spirit has always been to “keep calm and carry on” and the act of remembering is quite a private act.

IMG00002 20091111 1612 November 11 in France: Rewriting History

At 1515, I met a friend at the Monument aux Morts (Monument to the dead) ready for 1530 for the “event” to start. It’s not a day for political point scoring, but I will add that Christian Estrosi kept the veterans waiting for 30 minutes before turning up so we could start. (Yes, yes, you’re right to boo him. Yes, Boooooo!) I also saw Lauriano Azinheirinha, the man who won the by-election in the summer. (That’s right, booooo again!)

Music started playing; of course the national anthem first; La Marseillaise but then I was surprised to hear Deutschland Uber Alles played because I don’t think this song in particular is politically correct in Germany. I was surprised to hear a German song anyway, though this brings me on to the content of the speeches and the day’s theme.

November 11 is very much a Franco-German affair here. It has become much Europeanized; even Ode to Joy was played, the not-the-anthem of the European Union. It goes back to when Président Mitterrand held hands with Helmut Kohl. Super Europeans.

That’s understandable, how November 11 in France is a day to remember war, but also peace, and to concentrate on the relationship, and having made up, and being united within Europe etc.

I think they pushed it a bit too far though.

France has had a very uncomfortable experience not just of war, but of dealing with the war in terms of its collective memory. (Get out your EU Studies Lecture bingo cards, uni friends!)

IMG00003 20091111 1649 466x350 November 11 in France: Rewriting History

Thus, each year, particularly on VE day or Liberation Day, France rewrites its own history. Particularly in order to cope with Vichy France and the capitulation, the country has never quite come to terms with itself. General de Gaulle claimed that the Vichy government was “not France” and that the real France was with him, fighting on, it was the Resistance. It wasn’t quite like that.

This year after having heard the speech made by Christian Estrosi, Mayor of Nice, a young person might be forgiven for thinking that France and Germany were in fact fighting on the same side against a common enemy.

As a final thought, I found the French service a lot more inspiring than a British one, partly because of the difference in the national anthems. Britain is a lot more gloomy and remorseful, while France tries to draw positive conclusions for the future. Both valid responses.